Alternative Seville: from the Setas to the Alameda de Hércules

A contrast that defines Seville

The Seville of the Cathedral and the Alcázar belongs to its golden centuries. To the north, a short walk away, the city tells another story: that of its residents, its shops and its creativity today. The starting point is Plaza de la Encarnación, where since 2011 the Setas have stood — the Metropol Parasol, a huge timber structure that divided opinion and is now one of the city’s symbols.

Beneath the Setas, Roman and Almohad remains found during construction are preserved in the Antiquarium; at street level the market still operates; and above, a walkway crosses the rooftops with views of the Giralda. The whole building sums up the idea of this guide: heritage and contemporary life in the same place.

Further north, the Alameda de Hércules was laid out in 1574 and is one of the oldest public promenades in Europe. At one end stand two Roman columns topped by Hercules and Julius Caesar. For decades it was a run-down area; since its renovation it has become the great open-air living room of the northern centre, with terraces, bars and life until late.

It is not the secret Seville

To be clear: this is not a hidden Seville. Locals know it well, and more and more visitors do too. What sets it apart is its everyday pace and its mix of heritage, neighbourhood shops and creativity. It is a good answer for anyone who has already seen the great monuments or wants an afternoon away from the queues.

If you have three days, this area fits naturally into the third, as we suggest in what to see in Seville in 3 days. And to explore other districts, start with our guide to Seville’s neighbourhoods.